Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

After you retrieve the trouble codes from your vehicle's on-board computer, you can now check the sensors. Always refer to your service manual for specifications on your make and model vehicle.

The first trouble code to check is the throttle position sensor (TPS). The TPS is located either on the side of the carburetor or the side of the fuel injected models. It is attached to the throttle body. Visually inspect the sensor for worn insulation on the wires and a loose or cracked connection. Disconnect the sensor.

With the digital volt ohm meter or DVOM in the 20K ohm position, connect the positive DVOM lead to the sensor's center terminal. Connect the negative DVOM lead to one of the other sensors' terminals. Slowly move the throttle lever until it is at the wide-open position. Depending upon which terminal you connected the negative DVOM lead to, the DVOM reading should either increase or decrease steadily. Release the throttle lever slowly. If the DVOM reading is not gradual and steady, but moves instead at an irregular pace, the sensor is defective and should be replaced. Re-connect the sensor. Clear the trouble codes from the ECM memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least ten seconds.

Your next trouble code indicates a mass air flow (MAF). The MAF sensor is located between the air cleaner and engine throttle body. To test, start the engine. Take a screwdriver handle and tap the MAF lightly several times on the plugin side. DO NOT STRIKE THE SENSOR WITH FORCE, IT MAY CRACK. If the engine staggers, misfires, or stops running, the sensor is defective and should be replaced. Clear the trouble codes from the ECM memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least ten seconds.

Start the oxygen sensor performing test by removing the sensor from the vehicle. The oxygen sensor is located either in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe. Visually inspect the sensor for worn insulation on the wire and a loose connection. Start the engine and let it run for about five minutes, then turn the engine off. Disconnect the sensor. Secure the sensor connector away from the exhaust manifold; tape the connector to the fender well, if possible. Turn the digital vote ohm meter to the millivolt setting, connect the positive DVOM lead into the sensor connector terminal, and ground the negative DVOM lead to an unpainted ground. Restart the engine. Observe the DVOM reading. It should fluctuate between 100 and 1,000 mv (0.1 and 1.0 volts). If the voltage does not fluctuate in the pattern indicated above, the oxygen sensor is faulty and should be replaced. Re-connect the sensor. Clear the trouble codes from the ECM memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least ten seconds. Do not set the digital volt ohm meter on the ohm meter setting to do so will damage the oxygen sensor.

The next trouble code indicates manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. The MAP sensor is usually located on the firewall or the fender well. Visually inspect the vacuum hose and sensor connector for deterioration or loose connections then disconnect the sensor. Connect a jumper wire from terminal A on the MAP sensor to terminal A on the connector. Using a second jumper wire, connect the terminal in the same way. Turn the ignition switch on. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. With the digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) in the 20-volt DC setting, connect the positive DVOM lead to terminal B on the MAP sensor. Ground the negative DVOM lead to an unpainted ground. Observe the reading; it should be between 4.5 and 5 volts. Start the engine, let it idle. Keep the engine at idle and repeat the previous step. If it does not change from the ordinal ones, the sensor is faulty and should be replaced. Reconnect the sensor. Clear the trouble codes from the ECM memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least ten seconds.

This is how to test some of the sensors on a vehicle. There are many more sensors on a car. There are other ways to test them depending on the make and model of the vehicle. When you get ready to retrieve trouble codes or test your sensors, always check the service manual for specifications and how to test your sensors.

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

OBDII Vehicles

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them
Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

OBDII Vehicles

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

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How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

Tube. Duration : 5.35 Mins.

How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura
this is how you set ignition timing on an obd2 honda/acura. The car in the video is my 2000 integra gsr with a jdm b18c and a bad exhaust leak
How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

How to set Ignition timing: OBD2 Honda/Acura

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

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Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them
Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

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Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

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Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

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Your Vehicle's Sensors - How to Test Some of Them

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

For vehicles made after 1996, retrieving the codes of the check engine light in your dash panel is simple. All you need to do is find your diagnostic connector located under the dash by the driver side. You can then hook up a scanner and the codes will be displayed for you. If you don't have any scanner like most drivers, you can bring your vehicle to any local automotive parts store and they will usually scan the codes FREE for you. However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Video Clips. Duration : 3.62 Mins.

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Built and designed as a final project for EE 495: Special Topics, Computer Eng Lab. UNLV It has many applications such as post accident data analysis(blackbox), and vehicle performance analysis. The main chip here is the ELM 327 which lets me communicate with the ECU using CAN, ISO, or J1850. It also uses an ATMEGA328 with the arduino bootloader and a datalogger shield for the arduino from adafruit. Some other parts included is the MCP2551 (CAN transceiver) and a 3 axis accelerometer. Data is stored into an SD card for easy access to the data and further analysis For more info on the ELM327 read the data sheet www.elmelectronics.com Sorry for the mediocre video quality, I recorded everything with my moto droid. Pls feel free to leave comments and ask questions, Dino Tinitigan

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II



Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

No URL Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Octane Boosters and the Truth Behind Them

Octane numbers are something we see every day and probably take for granted. We all know this is a rating means to measure a fuels resistance to pre-ignition, but how does that apply in a practical sense. Let's first assume you have a car that runs well on 91 octane. What could you gain by altering the fuel you fill up with. By going down to 87 octane you will achieve better mileage, but could risk detonation depending on your cars engine. By going up to 93 octane you might allow your car to advance the timing gaining horsepower. Due to lower BTUs per gallon you will give up a few miles per gallon. So right off you can see that it is a balancing act.

Octane Boosters and the Truth Behind Them

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Video Clips. Duration : 3.62 Mins.

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Built and designed as a final project for EE 495: Special Topics, Computer Eng Lab. UNLV It has many applications such as post accident data analysis(blackbox), and vehicle performance analysis. The main chip here is the ELM 327 which lets me communicate with the ECU using CAN, ISO, or J1850. It also uses an ATMEGA328 with the arduino bootloader and a datalogger shield for the arduino from adafruit. Some other parts included is the MCP2551 (CAN transceiver) and a 3 axis accelerometer. Data is stored into an SD card for easy access to the data and further analysis For more info on the ELM327 read the data sheet www.elmelectronics.com Sorry for the mediocre video quality, I recorded everything with my moto droid. Pls feel free to leave comments and ask questions, Dino Tinitigan

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II



Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

No URL Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

For vehicles made after 1996, retrieving the codes of the check engine light in your dash panel is simple. All you need to do is find your diagnostic connector located under the dash by the driver side. You can then hook up a scanner and the codes will be displayed for you. If you don't have any scanner like most drivers, you can bring your vehicle to any local automotive parts store and they will usually scan the codes FREE for you. However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Video Clips. Duration : 3.62 Mins.

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Built and designed as a final project for EE 495: Special Topics, Computer Eng Lab. UNLV It has many applications such as post accident data analysis(blackbox), and vehicle performance analysis. The main chip here is the ELM 327 which lets me communicate with the ECU using CAN, ISO, or J1850. It also uses an ATMEGA328 with the arduino bootloader and a datalogger shield for the arduino from adafruit. Some other parts included is the MCP2551 (CAN transceiver) and a 3 axis accelerometer. Data is stored into an SD card for easy access to the data and further analysis For more info on the ELM327 read the data sheet www.elmelectronics.com Sorry for the mediocre video quality, I recorded everything with my moto droid. Pls feel free to leave comments and ask questions, Dino Tinitigan

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II



Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

No URL Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Top Five Most Common Trouble Codes

The check engine light, that yellow or red light that scares most drivers to death is actually a very good thing to see. The check engine light is a warning device that comes on when your vehicle has a problem with the emissions control system.

Top Five Most Common Trouble Codes

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Video Clips. Duration : 3.62 Mins.

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Built and designed as a final project for EE 495: Special Topics, Computer Eng Lab. UNLV It has many applications such as post accident data analysis(blackbox), and vehicle performance analysis. The main chip here is the ELM 327 which lets me communicate with the ECU using CAN, ISO, or J1850. It also uses an ATMEGA328 with the arduino bootloader and a datalogger shield for the arduino from adafruit. Some other parts included is the MCP2551 (CAN transceiver) and a 3 axis accelerometer. Data is stored into an SD card for easy access to the data and further analysis For more info on the ELM327 read the data sheet www.elmelectronics.com Sorry for the mediocre video quality, I recorded everything with my moto droid. Pls feel free to leave comments and ask questions, Dino Tinitigan

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II



Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

No URL Arduino Vehicle Data Logger / Black box OBD II

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In this Article I want to inform you of some of the top five Codes related to the check engine light.

OBDII Vehicles

Top Five Most Common Trouble Codes

#1 I have to say would be the code PO300-PO310 this code is for a MISFIRE which can be any combination of spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap coils or Fuel Injectors and even the PCM!

Top Five Most Common Trouble Codes

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#2 Codes PO440,442

These codes represent failure or defect in the vehicles EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS SYSTEM it keeps harmful fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. This failure can range from a loose or defective Gas Cap or its Seal, to a leak in one of the plastic tubes that run from the fuel tank to the engine compartment and a charcoal canister where fuel vapors are stored.

#3 Code 420

Is the code for a failed CATALYTIC CONVERTER the rear O2 sensor is the one that monitors Catalytic Converter efficiency, but a code in the 300 series that is not repaired promptly will cause a code 420.

#4 Codes 171,172,174

This series of codes are the OXYGEN SENSORS telling the Computer what fuel Mixture they see some are LEAN (MORE AIR THAN FUEL IN THE MIXTURE) LEANER THAN 14.6to1 vacuum leaks,low fuel pressure plugged injectors, failed O2 sensor(s). Same thing For RICH Readings (more fuel than air) plugged air filter,bad coolant temp sensor,leaking fuel injectors, too high fuel pressure. Before you run out and buy a 0.00 O2 sensor or two test to make sure the O2 sensor can function,troubleshoot the fuel delivery/management system.

#5 EGR codes

This code requires that someone troubleshoot the EGR System and on FORD the DPFE (backpressure Sensor) most EGR codes are due to carbon build-up in the EGR passages and NOT the EGR Valve.

But if the Check engine light does come on don't change the oil, won't help, don't panic that won't help either.

What will help is having a professional with an OBDII scan tool diagnose your symptoms and fix it properly Yes it WILL COST MONEY and it will save you money too in fuel mileage.

Top Five Most Common Trouble Codes

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On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and trucks.

OBDII Vehicles

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

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Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.

Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.

Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed.

If you want a detailed way on how the above procedures are done, please visit my blog: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com . This blog offers free info on how to check engine light codes with color pictures and regular repair tips so you can save money next time you see your check engine light.

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

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Looking closer at this, you notice that the extra horsepower comes from the ability of the car to advance timing and not the fuel itself. Higher octane fuel has less BTUs, but still nets power due to the timing advance and higher boost it can achieve. In modern vehicles with knock sensors the timing is constantly varied to achieve the best balance between performance and economy. Because this adjustment takes time, simply switch to higher octane at the track is not good enough. The fuel needs to be run in advance to allow the car to compensate for it. So using 91 all he time and then going to the track and filling up with 95 is not going to help your track times. You will have a faster car on the ride home though.

OBDII Vehicles

Octane Boosters and the Truth Behind Them

The other end of the spectrum is less octane. The down side here is the risk or pre-ignition and high EGTS. Both of these can lead to melted or bend pistons. Valves and the head is also placed in risk. If you have a modern vehicle it will detect this and retard timing to prevent damage. This timing modification is easy to detect with an OBDII scanner and it an easy to diagnose too fuel with too little octane.

Octane Boosters and the Truth Behind Them

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Because of the above reasons, a lot of people turn to the boosters as a way of having both good fuel commonly and good performance at the track. The problem with them is most do not work. If you do find one what works, adding it to your tank a day before you go to the track can be beneficial. Despite the benefit, use boosters sparingly as most rely on MMT as a means of boosting the octane. Excessive MMT can cause problems with sensors, injectors, or even the exhaust.

By now you are probably confused again by what all of this means. To sum it up, if your car has no changes to compression, raised RPM limiter, or lots of boost, you should probably use whatever fuel the dealer recommends. If you have a race built motor, stick to a race fuel that meets the need of your engine. If you have a lightly tuned engine and enjoy the occasional track day, throw in a bottle of octane booster the day before and call it a day. Do not rely on boosters all of the time.

Octane Boosters and the Truth Behind Them

Tags:

On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic vehicle manufacturers on how to check the engine lights in their cars and trucks.

OBDII Vehicles

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles

No URL

Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.

Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.

Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed.

If you want a detailed way on how the above procedures are done, please visit my blog: http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com . This blog offers free info on how to check engine light codes with color pictures and regular repair tips so you can save money next time you see your check engine light.

OBD1 Codes Secrets for Domestic Vehicles